In this article London based Fashion Photographer Joaquim Barreto walks us through the process of how to do a fashion photography editorial spread for a magazine. He’s also shared a series of shots from a fashion editorial spread that he’s done (there is a description of the brief for this spread at the bottom of this post).
As photographers, we have the ability to control our viewer’s eye through several creative techniques at our disposal. It’s not good enough just to say, use good composition.
Good composition is made of several element working in unison. Focus is certainly important, actually it’s the use of use of depth of field rather than the actual subject your focusing on. Another is the use of Light within the photo to direct the viewers eye. Our eye usually go to the brightest object within the photo. By making your intended subject the brightest object in the photo, your view will be directed there. Finally there is the uses of Leading Lines to guide your viewer eye through the photo.
A panorama is simply a wide-angled view of a physical space. To the photographer a panorama is usually several photographs that are stitched together horizontally to create a seamless picture.
This is going to be a pretty simple tutorial in which we create a panorama using Photoshop’s Photomerge utility.
Gridspot (or grid) is a studio accessory that you can attach to your flash. When the flash fires through the grid, the spread of the light rays is limited. The effect you get is very similar to the effect achieved by a snoot, but light more controlled and really hits a small surface. You often want to use a snoot or a grid for avoiding light spillage when you are setting up you back light.
Here is what you’ll need:
- Some black coroplast (you can get it in art stores and office depot)
- An exacto knife
- Glue
The first step is to measure your flash head. I use a Nikon SB800 which is six centimeters wide. Then, using the exacto knife, cut the coroplast into pieces of six by three. (If your flash is wider cut to something else by three cm). I did this by cutting a long six centimeters strip of coroplast, then trimming 3 centimeters at a time.
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One camera function that can be a lot of fun to play with (and that can get you some interesting results) is slow sync flash.
When shooting with a subject in low light situations you generally have two options; either to shoot with a flash or to shoot with a slow shutter speed.
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Capturing movement in images is something that many photographers only think to do when they are photographing sports or other fast moving subjects.
While there is an obvious opportunity in sports photography to emphasize the movement of participants – almost every type of photography can benefit from the emphasis of movement in a shot – even when the movement is very small, slow and/or subtle.
Should I use my camera’s Portrait mode when shooting Portraits or would I be better off manually setting my camera up?
Unless you have a high end DSLR, most digital cameras these days come with an array of shooting modes (including portrait mode) for a photographer to choose from when out using their camera. These shooting modes are designed to help camera owners to quickly tell their camera what type of shot they are taking to give the camera a hint at what type of effect you want.
Last weekend I was at a party with my point and shoot digital camera and wanting to take a few shots to help us all remember the night. The problem was that it was a poorly lit room and I needed to use my flash. The result was a lot of blown out images. The flash was too strong! What should I do next time? – Sally
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What is ‘Rectilinear,’ What is a ‘Fisheye’?
‘Rectilinear’ and ‘Fisheye’ are two different optical designs for wide angle lenses, resulting in very different looks. All modern ARRI/Zeiss wide angle lenses, including the Ultra Prime 8R, are of rectilinear design.
